Maytag Dryer Error Codes: Complete 2026 Guide

Maytag Dryer Code Formats: Two Eras, One Platform

All Maytag dryers built after the 2006 Whirlpool acquisition run on the same electronic architecture as Whirlpool WED (electric) and WGD (gas) dryers. That shared platform means you can cross-reference Whirlpool dryer error codes when a Maytag code isn't listed here — the diagnosis and parts are often identical. But the code format on your specific dryer depends on which control board generation it uses:

In newer models, the F number identifies the subsystem (F3 = thermistor/sensor circuit; F4 = power/heating circuit; F6 = communication) and the E number identifies the specific component or fault type within that subsystem. Older models compressed this into a single F-number without an E sub-code. Both formats are covered in this guide, with both code variants noted wherever a fault appears in both systems.

Maytag's electric dryers carry the MED prefix (e.g., MEDB835DW) and run on 240V. Gas models carry MGD (e.g., MGDB835DW) and run on 120V with a gas igniter. Error code behavior is mostly identical between electric and gas with the exception of heating-circuit codes (F4 E4, F4 E3), which differ slightly because gas and electric heating systems are wired differently.

Power-Cycle Reset: The Right First Step

Before diagnosing a hardware fault, always perform a full power-cycle reset. Maytag control boards can generate codes from brief voltage transients, sensor dropouts during a power surge, or a cycle interrupted mid-run. A proper reset clears all stored state and lets you confirm whether the code is a genuine hardware fault — if the same code reappears within the first few minutes of a fresh test cycle, a component has failed and no number of resets will fix it.

1. Press Power / Cancel to stop any active cycle and turn the dryer off.
2. Unplug the dryer from the wall outlet, or flip the dedicated circuit breaker to the OFF position.
3. Wait a full 1 minute. Maytag control boards drain their capacitors within 30–60 seconds; the full minute guarantees a clean reset across all board generations.
4. Restore power, select a short Timed Dry cycle (10–15 minutes), and press Start.
5. Watch the first 2–3 minutes. If the same code reappears, a component has failed — proceed to the relevant section below.

Entering diagnostic mode (newer MEDB / MGD models): Press and hold More Time + Less Time simultaneously for 5 seconds until the display changes to show stored fault codes. Use More Time or Less Time to advance through codes. Press Power/Cancel to exit diagnostic mode. On knob-selector models, rotate the cycle knob fully counterclockwise, then clockwise 3 clicks, counterclockwise 1 click, and clockwise 1 click within 6 seconds — then advance one position clockwise to step through diagnostic states.

AF / “Check Vent” — Airflow Blockage

What it means: The control board has detected that exhaust airflow is restricted. Maytag's electronic control continuously monitors the temperature differential between the inlet air and the exhaust air. When the differential falls below what the heating cycle should produce — meaning hot air is not moving through the drum and out the duct at the expected rate — the board triggers AF and locks out further operation.

On newer models with text-capable displays, AF may also appear as "Check Vent" or "Airflow". On older Bravos models with segmented displays it shows as the two characters AF. Both mean the same thing.

Diagnosis — work through in order:

1. Clean the lint screen. Remove the screen and hold it under warm running water. Rub gently to remove the fine, nearly-invisible waxy film left by fabric-softener sheets. This film is impermeable to air even when the screen looks visually clean. A film-coated lint screen can reduce airflow by 30% or more. Dry completely before reinserting.
2. Inspect the flexible exhaust duct. Pull the dryer out from the wall. The short flexible duct connecting the dryer's rear exhaust port to the wall penetration is frequently kinked, crushed, or filled with lint. Foil accordion duct (the thin, crinkly silver type) is especially prone to crushing behind the dryer. Replace kinked foil duct with smooth-wall rigid metal duct wherever possible.
3. Clean the full duct run. Disconnect the duct at the wall and at the dryer. Use a dryer vent brush kit ($15–$25) to push lint out of the entire duct run from dryer to exterior. Maytag's installation specs allow a maximum straight-run equivalent of approximately 35 feet, minus 5 feet per 90° elbow.
4. Check the exterior vent cap. Inspect the damper flap at the exterior termination point. It should swing open freely under airflow and close under gravity when the dryer stops. Bird nests, built-up lint matting, ice (in cold climates), and missing or stuck damper flaps are all common causes of AF codes in homes with otherwise-clean ductwork.
5. If the duct is fully clear and AF persists: The airflow sensor or the control board's airflow-monitoring circuit may have drifted. Run a timed dry cycle (not a moisture-sensing cycle) and monitor for recurrence. If AF returns on a clearly unobstructed vent, contact Maytag service — the control board may need replacement.

F3 E1 — Exhaust Thermistor Open or Shorted

What it means: The control board detected a fault in the exhaust thermistor circuit. The exhaust thermistor is a small resistive temperature sensor clipped to the exhaust duct inside the dryer cabinet; it measures the temperature of air leaving the drum so the control board can regulate the heating cycle. F3 E1 fires when the sensor reading is out of range — either an open circuit (sensor failed to a break) or a shorted circuit (sensor failed to near-zero resistance).

Diagnosis:

1. Perform a 1-minute power-cycle reset. F3 E1 can appear from a momentary connector separation caused by vibration; if it clears and doesn’t return on the next cycle, monitor and treat it as intermittent.
2. Unplug the dryer. Locate the exhaust thermistor — on most Maytag MEDB and MGD models it is clipped to the exhaust duct near the rear of the drum, accessible after removing the back panel (typically 6–8 screws).
3. Disconnect the two-wire connector at the thermistor. Measure resistance across the thermistor leads with a multimeter set to the 20k ohm or 200k ohm range. A healthy Maytag/Whirlpool-platform thermistor reads approximately 10,000–50,000 ohms (10–50 kΩ) at room temperature (68 °F / 20 °C). An OL (open) reading means the sensor has failed open; a reading near 0 ohms means it has shorted.
4. If the thermistor reads correctly but F3 E1 returns when reconnected, the fault is in the wiring harness between the thermistor and the control board. Inspect the harness run for pinched or chafed insulation, and check the connector pins at the board end for corrosion or retraction.

Replacement exhaust thermistors for Maytag Bravos and front-control dryers are OEM part WP3390291 or 8577274 on many models, available from appliance parts suppliers for $20–$30. If F3 E1 appeared after an AF overheating event, replace the high-limit thermal fuse at the same time ($10–$20) — the overheating event that triggered AF may have thermally stressed the fuse even if it still measures continuity.

F3 E3 — Moisture Sensor Bars Dirty or Failed

What it means: F3 E3 is a moisture-sensing fault. Maytag automatic-cycle dryers use two stainless steel sensor bars mounted inside the drum that laundry tumbles across. As clothes dry, their electrical resistance increases; the control board measures this to determine when the load is dry and end the cycle. F3 E3 fires when the moisture sensor circuit reads out of the expected range — either because the sensor bars are coated with a non-conductive residue, or because the sensor circuit or harness has failed.

The most common cause — and the easiest fix: Fabric-softener dryer sheets deposit a waxy, nearly invisible film on the sensor bars over time. This film insulates the bars from laundry, causing the board to read them as permanently dry or open-circuit even when wet clothing is in contact with them. Wipe both sensor bars firmly with a cotton pad or soft cloth soaked in rubbing alcohol (isopropyl 70% or higher). This resolves F3 E3 in the majority of cases at zero cost and takes under two minutes.

If the bars are visibly clean and F3 E3 persists:

1. Disconnect the sensor harness connector (typically a 2-wire connector near the front of the drum) and measure resistance across the connector while manually bridging the sensor bars with a damp cloth. The circuit should show measurable resistance when the bars are wet, and near-open when dry.
2. If the sensor circuit tests correctly but F3 E3 continues, the moisture-sensing circuit on the main control board has failed. On older models this produced code F28 — the equivalent fault in the older single-code format.

Avoid using fabric-softener dryer sheets as a routine practice — they cause F3 E3 far more often than most homeowners realize, and switching to liquid softener (used in the washer's rinse cycle) eliminates the buildup entirely.

F3 E2 — Rear Moisture Sensor Fault

F3 E2 appears specifically on Maytag models equipped with Advanced Moisture Sensing or Quad Sensor technology — a second set of sensor strips mounted at the rear of the drum in addition to the standard front-drum sensors. F3 E2 indicates a fault with this rear sensor pair specifically.

Begin with the same alcohol-wipe procedure as F3 E3 — fabric-softener film affects the rear bars just as readily as the front bars. If F3 E2 persists after cleaning, inspect the harness running from the rear sensor assembly to the main control board. On some Bravos XL models (MEDX655, MGDX655) the rear sensor harness is routed through the drum baffle area and can develop a break from drum rotation stress over time.

If the harness is intact and the fault continues, the rear moisture sensor assembly itself has failed. Replacement cost varies by model: the rear sensor strip on most MEDX and MGDX models costs $25–$45.

F4 E4 — Low or No Line Voltage

What it means: The control board detected that supply voltage on one or both legs of the 240V feed is below the minimum operating threshold. Electric Maytag dryers require approximately 240V across L1 and L2 to operate the heating element; a missing or degraded leg causes F4 E4 and prevents heating.

Most common cause — partially tripped circuit breaker: A standard 240V double-pole breaker consists of two linked poles. When one pole fails (from a brief overload or internal wear), that pole's leg drops to 0V while the handle mechanically stays in the ON position, making the breaker look like it is on from the outside. The dryer receives ~120V on one leg instead of ~240V across both, and the control board triggers F4 E4.

Resolution sequence:

1. Locate the dryer's dedicated 30A double-pole circuit breaker in your home panel. Flip it firmly and fully to the OFF position, wait 10 seconds, then flip it back to ON. Even if the handle appeared to already be in the ON position, this full cycle resets both internal contacts.
2. Test the dryer outlet with a multimeter. Set the meter to AC voltage; probe the two hot slots (the angled slots on a NEMA 14-30R outlet). The reading should be approximately 240V ± 10% (216–264V). If you read ~120V on L1-to-L2, one breaker pole is still not making contact — the breaker needs replacement.
3. If the outlet tests correctly at ~240V but F4 E4 persists, open the dryer's terminal block cover on the rear (typically 1 screw). Inspect the L1, L2, neutral, and ground lugs for loose or arced wiring. A single loose wire at the terminal block can intermittently drop a voltage leg and produce F4 E4.

F4 E4 also occasionally appears on gas Maytag dryers (MGD series) when the 120V supply has issues — though gas dryers only need 120V, a significantly low supply voltage triggers the same code designation.

F4 E3 — High-Limit Thermostat Tripped

What it means: The high-limit thermostat, a thermal safety device in the heating circuit, has opened because the dryer exceeded its safe temperature threshold. F4 E3 fires when the board detects that the heating circuit has been interrupted by this safety device.

The critical diagnostic point: do not replace the high-limit thermostat without first identifying and fixing the underlying cause of the overheating. A fresh thermostat installed on a dryer with a restricted vent will trip again — sometimes within the first cycle. The root cause of F4 E3 is almost always the same as AF: vent restriction. Work through the full AF vent-cleaning sequence first. Only after the vent is confirmed clear and F4 E3 returns should you replace the thermal components.

If the vent is clear and F4 E3 persists, test the high-limit thermostat with a multimeter set to continuity — it should read closed (continuity present) at room temperature. An open reading at room temperature means it has failed permanently and must be replaced. High-limit thermostats for Maytag Bravos dryers cost $10–$20. On electric models, also test the heating element for terminal-to-ground continuity (which indicates a shorted element running at full power regardless of thermostat state) — this is a less common cause of F4 E3 but a genuine fire hazard if present.

F6 E2 — Communication Error

What it means: The main control board and the user interface (UI) board — the control panel with buttons and display — have lost communication with each other. These two boards exchange signals continuously during operation; a break in communication causes F6 E2 and prevents the dryer from accepting commands or running cycles.

Most common cause — loose harness connector: On Maytag Bravos models the ribbon cable or wire harness connecting the UI to the main board passes through the hinge area of the top panel. Normal use causes the harness to flex slightly each time the top panel is opened; over years of use, the connector at either board end can loosen. Reseat the ribbon cable connector before condemning either board:

1. Unplug the dryer. On most MEDB/MGDB models, the console is removed by releasing two spring clips at the front of the top panel (insert a putty knife into the gap between the top panel and the front panel, about 3 inches in from each corner) and tilting the top panel back.
2. Locate the ribbon cable or wire harness connecting the console/UI board to the main board. Press each connector firmly until it clicks. Reconnect power and run a test cycle.

If F6 E2 returns after reseating all connectors, one of the two boards has failed. The UI board (the panel with buttons) is generally cheaper ($40–$80) and should be tested first by substitution if you have access to a matching unit. Main control boards for the MEDB/MGDB Bravos series run $150–$250.

F01 — Main Control Board Failure

F01 is the older single-code format equivalent of a main control board self-diagnostic failure. Found on Maytag Bravos models with segmented LED displays, F01 means the board failed its internal test at startup and cannot execute drying cycles. The board has detected an error in its own firmware checksum, EEPROM state, or relay driver circuit.

Start with a 5-minute power-cycle reset — older control boards sometimes require longer discharge times than the 1-minute procedure. Unplug for 5 full minutes before restoring power. If F01 returns on the next test cycle startup, the board has a hardware fault that a reset cannot cure. Main control board replacement for older MEDB Bravos models costs $150–$250 depending on vintage.

Before ordering a board, confirm your dryer’s age using the Maytag serial number decoder — a machine over 10 years old with an F01 board failure may be a stronger replace candidate than a repair candidate. See the repair vs. replace math section below.

PF — Power Failure

PF is not a component fault — it is an informational code indicating the dryer detected a loss of power while a cycle was in progress (a brownout, tripped breaker, someone pulling the plug). The Maytag control board stores cycle state in non-volatile memory; when power is restored, PF alerts you that the previous cycle was not completed.

Resolution: Press Start to resume the interrupted cycle from where it left off, or press Power/Cancel and start a new cycle. PF will clear once you interact with the control panel.

If PF appears repeatedly without any obvious power interruption, the dryer’s power connection has an intermittent fault. Inspect the power cord at both the plug and where it enters the dryer. On electric models, test the outlet contacts for voltage drop under load. A worn NEMA 14-30 outlet can intermittently drop a leg during the high-current draw of the heating element, causing PF even though the lights never flicker.

Older Single-Code Faults: F22, F26, F28, F29

Pre-2015 Maytag Bravos and Centennial dryers display fault codes without an E sub-code. Here is what each means and its newer compound equivalent:

F26 (drive motor fault) deserves particular attention: before condemning the motor, always check the drum manually for obstructions. A coin, underwire, or other item lodged between the drum and the front seal can prevent the drum from turning, causing the motor to stall and the board to log F26 even though the motor itself is healthy. Remove the obstruction and run a test cycle. If the drum rotates freely but F26 returns, the drive motor or its starting capacitor has failed — motor replacement for Maytag Bravos dryers costs $100–$200 in parts, and is a moderately complex DIY job requiring drum removal.

Full Maytag Dryer Error Code Reference Table

DIY vs. Call a Tech: Decision Matrix

Most Maytag dryer error codes can be resolved without a service call. Use this matrix to set expectations before picking up the phone or ordering parts:

Repair vs. Replace Math for Maytag Dryers

The industry benchmark for repair decisions is the 50% rule: if a repair costs more than 50% of what a comparable new unit would cost, replacement is generally the better economic choice — particularly when the machine has already passed its mid-life point. Residential electric clothes dryers average a 13-year expected lifespan under normal use, per National Association of Home Builders data. Entry-level Maytag electric dryers currently start around $700–$900 (MED5500FW, MEDB835DW) and mid-range models run $900–$1,200.

A Maytag Bravos dryer showing a first error code at year 3–5 is a strong repair candidate: the machine is barely halfway through its expected life and most faults are low-cost sensor or vent issues. The same machine at year 11–13 changes the math significantly — particularly if the fault is a main control board ($300+ total) and the drum bearings are already running noisy or the drum seal is worn. When secondary wear is evident, repair economics often favor replacement.

Putting the Error Code in Context

An error code tells you what subsystem failed. Knowing your dryer’s age and recall status tells you whether to fix it or replace it. Before spending on parts or a service call, confirm three things:

• Manufacture date: Encoded in the serial number on the label inside the door frame or on the back panel. Use the Maytag serial number decoder guide for the exact character positions, or run the serial through ApplianceIQ’s serial decoder.
• Warranty status: Maytag’s standard limited dryer warranty covers 1 year parts and labor. If your dryer is within that window, call Maytag Customer Service at 1-800-344-1274 before buying any parts — covered repairs are free.
• Recall status: Check your model number against the ApplianceIQ recall database or the CPSC recalls database before authorizing any repair. An open recall changes the economics entirely — recall repairs are manufacturer-funded.

For related Maytag troubleshooting, see the Maytag washer error codes guide. Since Maytag dryers share their platform with Whirlpool, the Whirlpool dryer error codes guide covers additional fault codes that appear on shared-platform models. For repair-vs-replace decision math across any appliance type, see the repair vs. replace 2026 guide. For fire safety data related to dryer venting, see the clothes dryer fire prevention data guide.

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