Whirlpool Dryer Error Codes: Complete 2026 Guide

Two Whirlpool Dryer Platforms — Electric and Gas

Whirlpool sells dryers under its own name and as the parent brand for Maytag, Amana, and most Kenmore dryers (110-prefix models). The error codes covered in this guide apply to all Whirlpool-platform dryers, but the heating system differs between electric and gas:

All error codes in this guide apply equally to both platforms unless noted. The key exception: L2 / F31 (voltage loss) is specific to electric dryers — gas models do not use a 240V supply and will not display this code. Gas dryers that fail to heat typically show F22, AF, or no code at all (gas valve or igniter failure is not always surfaced as a code on older models).

Whirlpool also manufactures Maytag, Amana, and most Kenmore dryers on the same electronic platforms. If your Maytag dryer shows one of these codes, this guide applies. Maytag-specific code equivalents are noted in the full reference table below.

First Step for Any Code: The Power-Cycle Reset

Before diagnosing any hardware failure, run a full power-cycle reset. Whirlpool dryer control boards can display transient error codes from brief power fluctuations, interrupted cycles, or momentary sensor dropout. A proper reset clears all stored state and distinguishes real hardware failures from electronic noise — and it resolves a meaningful fraction of F01 and PF codes without any parts.

1. Press the Power button to stop the current cycle.
2. Unplug the dryer's power cord from the wall outlet (or turn off the circuit breaker if the cord is inaccessible).
3. Wait 1 full minute. Whirlpool control boards discharge within 30–60 seconds; the full minute guarantees a clean reset on all board variants, including older Cabrio and Duet boards.
4. Plug back in and run a short Timed Dry cycle (15–20 minutes, medium heat) with a damp test load.
5. If the same error code returns within the test cycle, a genuine hardware fault is present. Proceed to the relevant section below.

AF / F30 / “Check Vent” — Restricted Airflow (Most Common)

AF (or “Check Vent” on models with text displays, or F30 on some Duet models) is the single most reported Whirlpool dryer code. The dryer detected that exhaust airflow has dropped below safe operating levels. Possible causes, in order of likelihood:

1. Clogged lint screen. The lint screen should be cleaned before every load. A screen caked with product residue from dryer sheets is porous to the eye but severely reduces airflow — wash it with warm soapy water and a soft brush, rinse, and air-dry completely before reinstalling.
2. Blocked or kinked exhaust duct. Pull the dryer away from the wall and inspect the 4-inch flexible duct connecting the dryer to the wall vent. Plastic accordion duct kinks easily and accumulates lint inside its ridges. Replace with rigid metal duct wherever possible.
3. Obstructed exterior vent cap. Go outside and check the exterior exhaust hood. Bird nests, wasp nests, lint accumulation, and freeze-closed flaps are common. The flap must open freely when you push it by hand.
4. Excessive duct length or too many elbows. Whirlpool specifies a maximum equivalent duct length of 64 feet for a straight-line run of smooth rigid duct, minus 4 feet per 90-degree elbow and 2 feet per 45-degree elbow. A run that exceeds the equivalent maximum will show persistent AF even with a clean duct.
5. Lint buildup inside the dryer cabinet. Lint passes through the lint screen and accumulates inside the dryer cabinet around the heating element and blower wheel over years of use. Have the cabinet interior professionally cleaned every 3–5 years, or do it yourself by removing the front or rear panel access.

F22 / F23 — Exhaust Thermistor Fault (No Heat)

The exhaust thermistor is a small resistive sensor mounted on the exhaust duct inside the dryer cabinet. It measures the temperature of outgoing air and feeds that reading to the control board. If the board detects an open circuit (resistance too high or infinite), it displays F22. A shorted thermistor (resistance near zero) shows F23.

Both faults result in the dryer refusing to heat — the drum tumbles but clothes never get warm. F22 is more common (open circuits from thermal cycling and age are more frequent than shorts).

How to test and replace the thermistor:

1. Unplug the dryer. The thermistor is usually located on the exhaust duct inside the rear or lower-front cabinet panel — consult your model's tech sheet (typically taped inside the lower front panel behind the lint screen) for the exact location.
2. Disconnect the two-wire connector from the thermistor. Set a multimeter to resistance (ohms). At room temperature (70°F / 21°C), a functioning Whirlpool thermistor reads approximately 10,000–11,000 Ω. A reading of “OL” (overload/open) confirms F22. A reading of zero or near-zero confirms F23.
3. If the thermistor tests bad, replace it. The OEM part (Whirlpool part numbers vary by model — search your model number + “thermistor”) costs $15–$30 and is secured by a single screw.
4. While inside the cabinet, also check the thermal cutoff fuse on the exhaust duct (a separate one-shot fuse that blows when the dryer overheats). Test it with a multimeter — it should read 0 Ω continuity. If it's blown, replace it ($5–$10) and find and fix the venting restriction that caused the overheat, or it will blow again.

L2 / F31 — L2 Voltage Loss (Electric Dryers Only)

North American electric dryers run on a 240-volt circuit composed of two 120-volt legs — L1 and L2. The motor and controls draw power from L1 only (120 V), while the heating element requires both legs together (240 V). If L2 is missing:

• The dryer starts, tumbles, and even runs a full cycle time — but nothing gets warm
• The control board sees the L2 rail absent and displays L2 or F31

Diagnosis sequence for L2 / F31:

1. Check the circuit breaker panel. Electric dryers use a double-pole 30-amp breaker. Open the breaker panel and look at the dryer's breaker. If one pole has tripped (it sits between On and Off, or the paddle feels loose), push it fully to Off, then back to On. A breaker that trips repeatedly has an underlying electrical fault — call an electrician.
2. Check the terminal block fuses. Some older homes have a fuse-type dryer circuit (a plug-in fuse block rather than a breaker panel). If one of the two cartridge fuses has blown, the dryer will show the same L2 behavior. Replace the blown fuse (30A, 250V).
3. Test the wall outlet. Using a multimeter set to AC voltage: probe L1 to neutral (should read ~120 V), L2 to neutral (should read ~120 V), and L1 to L2 (should read ~240 V). If any reading is significantly off, the wiring between the breaker and outlet has a fault — licensed electrician required.
4. Check the power cord terminal block on the dryer. The cord connects to a 3- or 4-terminal block on the dryer's rear access panel. A burnt terminal or loose connection here can mimic a missing L2 leg. Unplug the dryer, remove the access panel, and inspect the terminals for scorch marks or loose screws.

F01 — Main Control Board Failure

F01 indicates the main electronic control board (PCB) has reported a fault. Before ordering a replacement board, follow these steps — many F01 codes are transient and do not require a board replacement:

1. Power-cycle first. Unplug for 5 minutes (not just 1) to ensure full capacitor discharge. If F01 does not return after a clean power-up and test cycle, the fault was transient — common after power surges or interruptions.
2. Inspect ribbon-cable connections. The main board connects to the user interface and sensor harnesses via ribbon cables with friction-lock connectors. Open the console (usually by removing the back panel of the console — two screws on the top rear) and firmly press each ribbon connector into its socket. A partially unseated ribbon mimics a dead board and is a common misdiagnosis.
3. Check for visible board damage. Look for burnt components, darkened PCB traces, cracked solder joints, or bulging capacitors. If any are present, the board has genuinely failed.
4. Replace if confirmed. Whirlpool dryer control boards range from $80 to $200 depending on model generation. Used/refurbished boards are available from appliance parts suppliers. When replacing, photograph the wiring harness connections before disconnecting anything.

F02 — Keypad / User Interface Failure

F02 indicates the control board detected a stuck or shorted button on the user interface (keypad or touch panel). The most common cause is a button that has been held down for more than 30 seconds (such as a child leaning on the Start button), causing the board to log a stuck-key fault. Less commonly, a control panel membrane switch has physically failed.

Fix: Power-cycle the dryer first. If F02 returns, inspect each button on the control panel for physical deformation or sticking. The user interface assembly is a $40–$100 part depending on model and is typically held in place by two to four screws and a ribbon connector.

F26 — Drive Motor Failure

F26 indicates the drive motor system failed. The drive motor serves two functions in a Whirlpool dryer: it turns the drum (via a belt) and it spins the blower wheel that pulls hot air through the drum. Before replacing the motor, always check the drum belt first:

1. Listen. Open the dryer door mid-cycle. If the motor runs (you hear a hum or the blower, but the drum doesn't move), the belt has snapped or the idler pulley has failed. If the motor doesn't run at all, the motor or its thermal overload has tripped.
2. Check the drum belt. The belt wraps around the entire drum circumference and the motor's drive pulley via an idler tensioner. A snapped belt is the most common cause of a drum that won't rotate. Drum belts cost $10–$25 and replacing them is a beginner-to-intermediate DIY job requiring front panel removal.
3. Check the idler pulley. The spring-loaded idler tensioner keeps the belt taut. A seized or broken idler ($15–$30) can cause the belt to slip or cause the motor to draw excess current and trip its thermal cutout.
4. Motor replacement. If the belt and idler are intact and the motor won't start, or starts briefly and then shuts off (thermal overload), the motor has failed. Whirlpool dryer motors range from $60 to $150. Replacing the motor requires more disassembly (drum removal) but is within reach for confident DIYers.

F28 / F29 — Moisture Sensor Open / Shorted

Whirlpool dryers with “Auto Dry” sensing modes use a pair of metal sensor bars on the inside of the drum to detect residual moisture. As clothes dry, conductivity between the bars decreases. F28 means the moisture sensor circuit is open (bars not touching or circuit broken). F29 means it is shorted (bars always reading wet).

In both cases, the dryer typically continues to run but cannot stop automatically based on dryness — it may either stop too soon (F28) or run indefinitely (F29). The dryer falls back on timed-dry mode.

Fix:

• For F28: Clean the sensor bars (two curved metal strips visible on the inside rear drum wall) with fine steel wool or white vinegar on a cloth. Fabric softener residue is the most common cause of an open moisture sensor reading — the coating insulates the bars from the clothes.
• For F29: Inspect the sensor bars for damage or foreign objects bridging them. If cleaning doesn't resolve F29, the moisture sensor wiring harness or the main board input has failed.
• The moisture sensor assembly is a $25–$50 part. It is mounted on the lint duct housing inside the drum and held by two screws.

PF — Power Failure Alert

PF is not a fault code — it is an informational alert indicating the dryer lost power during an active cycle (typically from a brief outage, a tripped breaker, or a cord being unplugged). The dryer is simply noting that the previous cycle did not complete normally.

Fix: Press Start / Pause to resume the interrupted cycle, or press Cancel/Off and start a new cycle. If PF appears and the dryer was not interrupted by a power loss, investigate whether a faulty outlet or power cord is causing intermittent power drops.

Full Whirlpool Dryer Error Code Reference Table

DIY vs. Call a Tech

These Whirlpool dryer codes are reliably safe DIY fixes for homeowners comfortable with basic tools:

• AF / F30: Always start with cleaning. Zero cost, no tools needed beyond a vacuum and brush.
• F22 / F23: Thermistor replacement — multimeter to confirm, one screw and a connector to replace.
• L2 / F31: Breaker reset is free. Outlet testing with a multimeter requires care around live voltage.
• F28 / F29: Cleaning is always free and safe. Sensor bar replacement is one of the easier internal repairs.
• PF: Resume or restart — no parts, no tools.

Call a tech (or consult an electrician first) for these situations:

• L2 / F31 where the circuit breaker keeps tripping after reset — an electrical fault upstream of the dryer requires a licensed electrician.
• F01 that returns after power-cycling and reseating all connectors — board replacement is straightforward but requires verifying the diagnosis is correct before spending $80–$200.
• F26 confirmed motor failure — drum removal is required and the job requires more than basic tool confidence.
• Any situation involving disassembly of the gas valve, burner, or igniter assembly on gas dryers.

Repair vs. Replace Math for Whirlpool Dryers

Whirlpool dryers have a median lifespan of 12–15 years. As a general benchmark, a repair is typically worth doing if:

• The dryer is under 8 years old and the repair cost is less than 50% of a comparable replacement
• The dryer is 8–12 years old and the fault is a low-cost part (thermistor, moisture sensor, belt)
• The dryer is over 12 years old: major repairs (control board, motor) are harder to justify unless the replacement cost is very high (e.g., a high-end matching pair)

To calculate your dryer's age accurately, use ApplianceIQ's serial decoder with your Whirlpool dryer's serial number. The serial encodes the production week and year — see our Whirlpool serial number decoder guide for the full letter-code chart.