Samsung Dishwasher Error Codes: Complete 2026 Troubleshooting Guide

How Samsung Dishwashers Display Error Codes

Samsung dishwashers show error codes directly on the digital control panel display. A few important quirks to know before looking up your code:

• C vs. E suffix: Samsung uses two suffix styles across its model lineup — the "C" suffix (5C, 4C) on older and mid-range units, and the "E" suffix (5E, 4E) on some newer and European-market variants. These are identical faults. The pairing is: 5C = 5E, 4C = 4E, 1C = 1E. Use whichever this guide shows interchangeably.
• "0" vs. "O": The overflow code displays as OC on most models but may render as 0C (zero-C) on some displays. Same fault either way.
• Information codes vs. error codes: Some codes (like LC) are actually safety information codes that lock out operation rather than mid-cycle errors. The distinction matters for reset: information codes often require the root cause to be resolved before the lock clears.
• Models without a display: A small number of entry-level Samsung dishwashers use LED indicator patterns rather than a text display. The normal wash LED will blink; count the blink groups and cross-reference the model-specific service manual.

Once you have the code, press and hold Start/Cancel for 3 seconds to cancel the current cycle. This clears the code from the display. The code will return on the next cycle if the underlying fault is not resolved.

Complete Samsung Dishwasher Error Code Reference

5C / 5E: The Drain Error (Most Common Samsung Code)

The 5C/5E drain error is by far the most searched Samsung dishwasher code — and the good news is that the fix is almost always free. The dishwasher's control board monitors how quickly water exits during the drain cycle. If it doesn't drain within the allotted time, it trips 5C/5E and halts the program.

Step 1 — Clean the filter (resolves ~70% of 5C cases)

Samsung dishwashers use a three-part filter assembly on the tub floor: a cylindrical micro-filter, a coarse mesh flat filter beneath it, and the fine mesh screen surrounding the cylinder. Together, they trap food particles. Unlike older dishwashers with self-cleaning grinders, Samsung's filters require manual cleaning — Samsung recommends once a month, but most owners never do it.

1. Pull out the lower rack completely.
2. Turn the cylindrical filter counterclockwise (about a quarter turn) and lift it straight out.
3. Lift the flat mesh screen beneath it — it sits loose in the sump and lifts straight up.
4. Rinse both filter components under warm running water. Use a soft toothbrush to scrub the mesh — grease film is invisible but clogs flow. Do not use abrasive pads that can damage the mesh weave.
5. Inspect the sump recess left behind: look for broken glass, fruit pits, twist-ties, or labels that bypassed the filter.
6. Reassemble the filter (flat screen first, then cylindrical micro-filter — turn clockwise to lock), reinstall the lower rack, and run a short rinse cycle.

Step 2 — Check the drain hose (resolves most remaining 5C cases)

If the filter was clean or 5C returned after cleaning, the blockage is downstream in the drain hose path. The drain hose runs from the dishwasher pump outlet, loops up under the counter, and drops to the sink drain or garbage disposal connection.

• Kink check: Pull the dishwasher forward slightly and trace the corrugated drain hose along its full length. A kink behind the cabinet wall — especially common after any service work that moved the unit — will prevent drainage. Straighten and re-secure the hose without a tight bend.
• High loop: The hose must loop up to within 18 inches of the underside of the countertop before descending to the drain connection. This high loop prevents backflow from the sink drain into the dishwasher tub. A hose that drops straight from the pump to the disposal will cause recurring 5C errors as dirty water back-siphons into the tub.
• Garbage disposal knockout: On new dishwasher installations connected to a garbage disposal, the plastic knockout plug inside the disposal's dishwasher inlet port is often forgotten. If this plug was never removed, the drain hose has no exit path. Insert a screwdriver into the port, tap with a hammer to punch out the plug, retrieve the plug from inside the disposal, and try again.
• Drain hose blockage: Disconnect the drain hose at both ends and run water through it to confirm it is clear. Grease buildup can accumulate near the disposal connection over years of use.

When 5C requires a technician

If the filter is clean, the drain hose is clear, and 5C persists, the drain pump itself has likely failed. The drain pump is a separate motor from the wash circulation pump. You can listen for it: at the start of a drain cycle, you should hear a distinct humming sound as it runs. If you hear silence during the drain phase, the pump motor has seized. Drain pump replacement on Samsung dishwashers typically costs $120–$200 in parts plus labor.

4C / 4E and 1E: Water Supply Errors

4C / 4E — Insufficient fill

The 4C/4E code fires when the dishwasher's water flow sensor does not detect adequate water entering the tub within a fixed time window — typically 4 minutes. This is purely a supply-side problem; the dishwasher's internal components are fine.

Check in this order:

1. Supply shutoff valve: The water shutoff valve under the sink (where the inlet hose connects) may not be fully open. Confirm it is turned counterclockwise until it stops.
2. Household water pressure: Samsung dishwashers require 20–120 PSI. Below 20 PSI, the fill time exceeds the limit and 4C trips. Low pressure during peak morning usage in apartment buildings or high-draw periods (multiple fixtures running) is a common intermittent cause. If 4C only occurs at certain times of day, pressure is the suspect.
3. Inlet hose kink: Trace the braided stainless inlet hose from the shutoff valve to the back of the dishwasher. A kink near the 90-degree elbow connection at the unit is common.
4. Inlet screen: Unscrew the inlet hose from the back of the dishwasher (have a towel ready — water will spill). Inside the threaded fitting on the dishwasher, there is a small mesh screen. Sediment and mineral deposits can clog it to the point of triggering 4C. Clean or replace the screen.
5. Water inlet valve: If all supply checks pass, the water inlet valve solenoid has likely failed. It is a service-level repair — the valve is accessible but requires disconnecting plumbing and electrical connections.

1E / 1C — Water inlet pressure switch fault

The 1E code is related to 4C but indicates a fault in the pressure switch or water level sensor itself rather than an actual supply shortfall. The control board cannot confirm the water level even when water is present. Power cycling for 60 seconds clears transient 1E faults. Persistent 1E requires a service technician to test the pressure switch and its wiring harness.

LC / LE: The Leak Sensor Code

LC (or LE) is a safety lock-out code. A moisture sensor in the base pan beneath the dishwasher tub has detected water where it should not be. Unlike a mid-cycle error that you can clear and retry, LC indicates an active or recent water intrusion event. Do not restart the dishwasher until you have found and fixed the leak source.

Why this matters: The dishwasher's control board and wiring harness are mounted in the base area. Operating with water in the base pan risks an electrical fault and potential trip of the GFCI or house circuit — or in worst cases, a fire caused by moisture on a live PCB connection.

Common LC leak sources

• Door gasket: The rubber perimeter seal around the door opening deteriorates over time. Visible cracking, hardening, or deformation allows spray water to escape the tub during the wash cycle. Inspect with a flashlight. Door gaskets are a DIY replacement: the gasket presses into a channel and can be swapped without tools.
• Spray arm crack: A cracked or broken spray arm directs water sideways toward the door seam instead of upward. Remove and inspect both spray arms. Replacements are inexpensive ($15–$40 each).
• Inlet hose connection at the unit: The connection point where the water supply hose threads into the back of the dishwasher is a common slow-drip source. A loose fitting or damaged thread can drip water into the base pan over many cycles before triggering LC. Tighten or reseal with Teflon tape.
• Tub crack: Rare on dishwashers under 7 years old. Visible as a hairline crack in the stainless tub interior, usually near the door frame. This is an economic total loss; a cracked tub is not economically repairable on most models.

Clearing LC after fixing the leak

After fixing the leak source, the base pan must be completely dry before the sensor resets. Tip the dishwasher forward at a 45-degree angle for 15–30 seconds to drain any residual water from the base pan through the front seal. Have towels ready. Then allow the base to air-dry for several hours before powering on. If the pan is still wet, LC will persist regardless of reset attempts.

OC / 0C: Overflow Warning

OC means the fill level sensor has detected water above the maximum permitted fill level. This is a serious code that warrants immediate action: close the water supply shutoff valve under the sink and power off the dishwasher at the circuit breaker.

The most common cause is a water inlet valve solenoid that has failed in the open position — water continues to flow into the tub even when the control board has not commanded a fill. Less commonly, a failed water level sensor reports an incorrect level and triggers a false OC while the actual fill is normal.

OC is not a DIY repair in most cases. The inlet valve must be replaced to prevent recurrence. If the dishwasher has been running with OC and water has been flowing unchecked, also check for water in the base pan (which will trigger LC simultaneously) and in the cabinet below.

Heating and Sensor Codes: HE, tE, 8E, 9E

HE — Heating element not heating

Samsung dishwashers heat water using a concealed heating element beneath the tub. The HE code fires when the control board's thermistor readings indicate no temperature rise during the wash cycle — the water is not being heated. Unlike Bosch's separate E09 diagnostic, Samsung's HE is a catch-all for heating circuit failures.

Likely causes:

• Failed heating element: Test with a multimeter. Set to resistance (Ω) mode and probe the two terminals on the element. A healthy element reads approximately 15–30 Ω depending on model; an open circuit (infinite resistance) indicates a burned-out element. Heating element replacement is a moderate DIY job on Samsung units: the element is accessed from the bottom of the tub after removing the spray arm and filter.
• Failed thermistor (temperature sensor): A thermistor that reads a falsely low temperature can trigger HE even when the element works. Thermistor resistance should be approximately 5,000–10,000 Ω at room temperature depending on model — consult the service manual for your specific unit. If the element tests good and HE persists, replace the thermistor.
• Main control board relay: If both the element and thermistor test within spec, the relay on the control board that switches the heating circuit has likely failed. This is a service-level repair.

tE — Thermistor fault

The tE code is a direct thermistor fault — the sensor's resistance has fallen outside the valid range, making temperature readings unreliable. The dishwasher locks out heating to prevent overheating the wash water. This is distinct from HE, which indicates the heating circuit is not responding; tE specifically indicts the sensor itself. The thermistor is a low-cost part ($10–$25) but requires partial disassembly to access. For most homeowners, scheduling a service technician is the practical path.

8E — Heater or leak sensor error

The 8E code behavior varies by model generation. On some Samsung dishwasher families it indicates a heating circuit fault (similar to HE); on others it indicates the leak sensor has detected a fault in the base pan. The first step for any 8E is a 60-second hard reset (circuit breaker). If 8E returns, check the base pan for moisture before assuming a heater fault. Persistent 8E regardless of moisture state requires a technician with model-specific service documentation.

9E — Low water level

The 9E code fires when the water level sensor detects insufficient water in the tub during the wash cycle. First, confirm the supply valve is fully open and pressure is adequate (which would also cause 4C). If supply checks out, the water level pressure switch or its hose connection has developed a fault. Empty the dishwasher, run a fresh normal cycle, and observe whether water is filling to the expected level. If the tub appears underfilled, the inlet valve may be partially seized; if the water level looks normal but 9E fires, the sensor itself is the suspect.

WaterWall-Specific Codes: 7E and PC

Samsung's WaterWall models (including the DW80K9950US and related series) use a wall of water that sweeps back and forth across the tub from a moving reflector bar rather than rotating spray arms. These models have two additional codes tied to the reflector mechanism.

• 7E — WaterWall reflector motor fault: The reflector bar is driven by a dedicated motor along rails at the bottom of the tub. The 7E code fires when the motor does not detect proper reflector travel. On a brand-new WaterWall installation, blue packing tape is sometimes left on the reflector bar — this blocks movement and triggers 7E immediately. Check for tape first. Otherwise, inspect the rails for food debris or broken glass obstructing travel. If the path is clear and 7E persists, the reflector motor has failed and requires service.
• PC — Zone wash reflector error: The PC code applies to WaterWall models with a zone wash feature, where the reflector can be targeted to specific rack zones. PC indicates the reflector is not reaching its commanded position. Same diagnostic sequence as 7E: check for obstructions, confirm the reflector moves freely by hand, and call service if motor failure is confirmed.

How to Reset Any Samsung Dishwasher Error Code

Samsung uses two reset methods, and choosing the right one matters:

1. Soft reset (cycle cancel): Press and hold Start/Cancel for 3 seconds. The cycle cancels, the display clears, and the unit returns to standby. Use this for any code where you have fixed the underlying issue and want to confirm the repair. This is also the first step for transient codes like 9E or bE.
2. Hard reset (control board discharge): Trip the dishwasher's circuit breaker and leave it off for 60 seconds — not 5 or 10. Modern control boards have capacitors that take time to fully discharge. Restore power after 60 seconds. Use this for CE, 3E, HE, tE, and any code that returned immediately after a soft reset. Board-level codes sometimes clear after a hard reset when caused by a power transient rather than a hardware failure.

A reset does not fix anything on its own. If the fault condition has not been resolved, the code will return the next time the dishwasher reaches the phase that triggered it — usually early in the main wash (for supply or heating codes) or at the end of the cycle (for drain codes).

Repair vs. Replace Math for Samsung Dishwashers

Samsung dishwashers earn a mid-tier reliability rating — approximately 74/100 per Consumer Reports — which is solid but well below Bosch (98/100) or Miele. This affects the repair-or-replace calculus: Samsung units are less likely to run reliably to age 14 than Bosch, which means expensive repairs on older units carry more risk.

A comparable Samsung dishwasher replacement (DW80 mid-range) costs $500–$900. The 50% rule — replace when repair cost exceeds 50% of replacement — puts the threshold at $250–$450. Apply that against the costs above. A control board replacement on a 9-year-old Samsung rarely pencils out; a drain pump replacement on a 5-year-old Samsung almost always does.

Before committing to any repair: confirm the actual age of your unit using the manufacturing date (not the purchase date or model year) and check the recall status. Our Samsung serial number decoder walks through exactly how to read Samsung's date code format. Then run your model number through a recall check — a unit under a live CPSC recall may qualify for a free manufacturer remedy that changes the repair math entirely. For broader guidance, see our appliance repair vs. replace decision tree.