LG Dryer Error Codes: Complete 2026 Guide

Electric vs. Gas: Which Codes Apply to Your LG Dryer

LG sells both electric dryers (model numbers starting with DLE, DLEX, DLHC, DLEC) and gas dryers (DLG, DLGX). Most error codes are shared, but the heating-system codes diverge:

• Electric dryers: Use HE for heating element failures and nP for missing 240V supply. The machine needs two 120V legs from the outlet to power the element; if one leg drops out, the drum still turns but nP appears and there is no heat.
• Gas dryers: Do not show HE (no heating element). Gas ignition faults may not produce a visible code on all models — symptoms are a drum that runs but clothing stays cold. nP on a gas dryer usually means the 120V supply to the gas valve solenoids is missing.
• Both types: Share all airflow codes (d80, d90, d95), thermistor codes (tE series), EHE (on condenser models), CL, and PS.

How to confirm your model type: Find the label inside the door opening (on the frame around the drum). The model number starting with DLE or DLEX is electric; DLG or DLGX is gas. If the label is worn, the ApplianceIQ serial decoder can identify the fuel type from the model number alone.

Power-Cycle Reset: Start Here Before Anything Else

Every LG dryer error code guide — including LG's own — starts with the same step: a full power cycle. Here is the correct procedure:

1. Press Power to end the current cycle.
2. Unplug the dryer from the wall outlet, or trip both poles of the circuit breaker to the OFF position simultaneously.
3. Wait 30 seconds (some techs recommend 60 seconds for newer control boards).
4. Restore power and run a short timed-dry cycle — typically a 20-minute low-heat run — and watch for the code to return.

A code that disappears after a reset and does not come back was triggered by a transient event (power surge, momentary sensor glitch). A code that returns immediately or within one cycle confirms a physical fault — proceed to the relevant section below. For d80/d90/d95 airflow codes, do not resume drying until the duct obstruction is cleared, even if the code disappears after a reset.

d80 / d90 / d95 — Airflow Blockage Codes (Fire-Hazard Category)

LG's "d" codes are the most important codes in this guide — and the most dangerous to ignore. They represent blockage percentage in the exhaust path: the dryer's onboard sensors measure exhaust temperature against drum temperature and infer how restricted airflow has become.

d80 — 80–89% Blockage

With a d80 code, the dryer has detected that the exhaust pathway is 80–89% obstructed. The machine will continue operating, but it slows efficiency dramatically: cycle times increase, clothes come out damp, and the restricted hot air bakes lint into a progressively denser plug. This is a warning, not a safety stop — but it is only one cleaning session away from d90 or d95.

On gas dryers only: d80 can also appear when the gas supply pressure is insufficient. If you have confirmed the exhaust duct is clear, check that the gas shutoff valve behind the dryer is fully open and that other gas appliances in the home are operating normally.

d90 — 90%+ Blockage: Dryer Pauses

At d90, the dryer detects blockage of 90% or more. The machine interrupts the cycle, drops to a cool-down sequence, and will not resume heating until airflow is restored. This is LG's automatic safety intervention: continuing to heat with 90%+ restriction creates temperatures inside the duct that can ignite trapped lint.

d95 — 95%+ Blockage: Dryer Stops

d95 is the most severe airflow code. The dryer shuts down the heating system immediately and will not restart a heated cycle. d95 typically means the duct is almost entirely blocked — often by years of accumulated lint, a crushed flexible hose behind the unit, or an outdoor vent cap sealed shut by paint, pests, or debris.

Clearing d80 / d90 / d95: Step-by-Step

1. Clean the lint screen — before every load, every time. A partially blocked screen contributes to all three d codes.
2. Inspect the flexible transition hose behind the dryer. Pull the dryer away from the wall. Look for sharp bends, kinks, or sections that have been crushed by the machine being pushed too close to the wall. Replace any damaged flexible duct with a rigid or semi-rigid aluminum duct — LG recommends a maximum duct length of 8 feet for flexible duct.
3. Clean the full exhaust duct run with a dryer duct cleaning brush kit (available for ~$20–$35 at hardware stores). Feed the brush from the outside vent cap inward, or use a drill-powered brush kit for longer runs.
4. Inspect the outdoor vent cap. The flap should open freely when the dryer runs and close when it stops. Flaps clogged with lint, paint, or debris are a very common d95 trigger. Clean or replace the cap ($8–$20).
5. Run a timed-dry cycle after cleaning. If the d code does not reappear, the fix is complete. If d80 or above returns within a few cycles, you have a longer duct run with a hidden obstruction — consider professional duct cleaning.

tE / tE1 / tE2 / tE4 — Thermistor Fault Codes

LG dryers use two thermistors: an inlet thermistor that measures incoming air temperature and an outlet thermistor that measures exhaust air. The tE codes identify which sensor is at fault and the nature of the failure.

tE / tE1 — Inlet Thermistor Open or Out of Range

tE (or tE1) is the most common thermistor code and almost always refers to the inlet thermistor. The sensor has an open circuit, a short to ground, or is reading a temperature outside the expected operating window. The dryer will not heat when tE1 is active, because the control board cannot confirm safe operating temperatures.

Diagnosis steps:

1. Power cycle (30 seconds unplugged). If tE1 clears and does not return, it was a transient glitch.
2. If it returns, locate the thermistor — on most LG dryer models it is clipped to the inlet duct near the heating element housing. Disconnect the wiring harness and inspect the connector for corrosion, bent pins, or cracked insulation. Reconnecting a corroded connector resolves tE1 in a meaningful number of cases.
3. Test the thermistor with a multimeter set to resistance (kΩ). At room temperature (~70°F / 21°C), a good LG inlet thermistor reads approximately 10–50 kΩ. A reading of 0 Ω (short) or OL (open) confirms the sensor has failed.
4. Replace the thermistor. Common part number: 6323EL2001B (fits many DLGX, DLG, DLEX, DLE models — confirm your model before ordering). Cost: $10–$25. Replacement takes approximately 20 minutes with basic tools.

tE2 — Outlet Thermistor or Steam-Cycle Thermistor

tE2 often appears after a SteamFresh, Steam Sanitary, or Steam Option cycle. During steam cycles, exhaust air humidity spikes sharply; in cold environments or with a partially restricted duct, the sudden change in exhaust temperature can trigger the outlet thermistor's out-of-range threshold. LG's own support documentation notes that tE2 is particularly common in cold-weather laundry rooms or after steam cycles when the duct cools quickly.

First step for tE2: ensure the exhaust duct is unobstructed (a d80 condition can co-exist with tE2). If tE2 appears consistently without steam cycles and airflow is confirmed clear, test and replace the outlet thermistor using the same resistance-check procedure as tE1.

tE4 — Thermistor Out of Operating Range

tE4 indicates that one of the dryer's temperature sensors is reading a value so far outside the expected range that the control board cannot safely operate the heater. Unlike tE1/tE2, tE4 can sometimes be caused by a failing control board rather than the sensor itself. Confirm by testing the sensor resistance first. If the sensor reads in range, the issue is likely in the harness or the board's measurement circuit — which requires professional service.

nP / PS — Power Supply Codes

Power supply codes are less about the dryer itself and more about what is happening at the electrical panel or outlet. Both codes are diagnostic — they mean the dryer is reporting an anomaly in its incoming power, not that an internal component has failed.

nP — No Power to Heating Circuit

nP stands for "No Power" (to the heater). On an electric dryer, the drum motor and display run on 120V from one leg of the outlet; the heating element requires the full 240V (both legs combined). When one leg is present but the other is missing, the drum turns normally and the display works — but the heater gets nothing, and nP appears.

The most common cause is a half-tripped circuit breaker. A 240V circuit uses a double-pole breaker (two switches tied together). After a surge, one pole can trip while the other stays on — from the front of the panel it may look like the breaker is still "on." Always reset a 240V breaker by pushing it fully to OFF and then to ON, even if it does not appear tripped.

If the breaker is confirmed fully reset and nP persists, the outlet itself may be faulty (a broken terminal contact inside the outlet body is common after power events). Test the outlet with a 240V voltmeter or plug in a known-working appliance. Replace the outlet if voltage is absent on one leg.

PS — Power Supply / Terminal Block Wiring Error

PS (Power Supply error) indicates that the dryer's control board is detecting incorrect voltage polarity at the terminal block — specifically, the white (neutral) and red (L2) wires have been reversed. This typically happens after an installation or repair where the dryer was rewired without following the color-coded terminal block diagram inside the back access panel.

PS requires turning off the breaker, opening the terminal block access panel, and verifying that the connections match LG's wiring diagram: Black → L1 terminal, Red → L2 terminal, White → neutral terminal, and the green or bare copper wire → ground lug. Never work on the terminal block with the breaker energized.

HE / EHE — Heating Element and Heater Overcurrent Codes

HE — Heating Element Fault (Electric Dryers)

HE on an LG electric dryer means the control board detected that the heating element circuit drew no current, or less current than expected, when the heater was commanded on. The three most common causes:

1. Open heating element: The element's coil has physically broken (burned through). Test with a multimeter in resistance mode — a good element reads 8–12 Ω. No continuity (OL) confirms the element is open and must be replaced ($25–$65 DIY).
2. Blown thermal cutoff (TCO): LG dryers have a one-shot thermal cutoff designed to trip if the dryer overheats — often caused by restricted airflow (see d codes above). A blown TCO reads no continuity and must be replaced (~$10). Crucially: always replace the TCO and heating element together. A burned-out element usually means the TCO was stressed past its limit; replacing only the TCO will likely result in another failure within weeks.
3. High-limit thermostat failure: The cycling thermostat that sits on the heater housing can also open permanently after repeated overheating. Test for continuity in the same way. Replacement cost: $12–$20.

Before ordering a heating element, confirm there is no active airflow restriction — running the dryer with a blocked duct will burn out a new element just as quickly as it burned out the old one.

EHE — Heater Overcurrent (Condenser Dryers)

EHE (and its companion ELE) appears primarily on LG condenser dryers — ventless models that recirculate air through a heat exchanger rather than exhausting it outside. EHE means the heater is drawing more current than the control board considers safe, often because the drum is packed with excessively wet laundry or because the condenser filter is clogged with lint.

For EHE: power cycle, then clean the condenser filter (accessible behind a lower panel on most condenser models — LG recommends cleaning it every 3–5 cycles). If EHE returns after cleaning, the heater relay on the control board may have failed, which requires professional service.

CL and Other Informational Codes

Not every code on an LG dryer display is an error. These notifications appear like codes but require no repair:

Full LG Dryer Error Code Reference Table

DIY vs. Call a Tech: Decision Guide

Most LG dryer error codes resolve with a cleaning, a breaker reset, or a $10–$25 sensor. Here is when to draw the line:

Repair vs. Replace: The Math for LG Dryers

LG dryers have an average lifespan of 10–13 years with normal use. Use the 50% rule as the starting threshold: if repair cost exceeds 50% of a comparable new dryer's price (currently $600–$1,100 for mid-range LG models), replacement often makes more economic sense.

• d95 / duct cleaning on a unit under 10 years old: Always repair. Cleaning costs $0–$50 DIY or $80–$150 professional. No parts are failing — this is maintenance.
• tE1 thermistor on any age unit: Always repair. $10–$25 part, 20-minute job. Even on a 12-year-old dryer, this is worth doing.
• HE (element + TCO) on a unit under 8 years old: Repair. $35–$75 is well under threshold for a machine worth $600–$900 new.
• HE (element + TCO) on a unit over 10 years old: Repair if it is the first major failure. On the second major failure in a 24-month window, apply the 50% rule and likely replace.
• tE4 or EHE requiring control board replacement on a unit over 8 years old: Evaluate carefully. Control boards cost $150–$300 installed, which approaches 30–50% of a new dryer's price. Factor in the overall condition of the drum seal, belt, and rollers — if multiple components are near end-of-life, replacement is usually more economical.

For a structured decision framework, see our appliance repair-vs-replace decision tree and 2026 repair cost math guide. For LG's overall reliability track record, see appliance lifespan by brand.

Before scheduling a service call, run your LG dryer's model and serial number through ApplianceIQ. It returns the exact manufacture date (important for determining whether the motor or drum is still under LG's limited warranty), active recall status, and estimated remaining lifespan — so you go into the repair conversation with full context. Free tier includes 25 lookups/month. You can also check your LG serial number to decode the manufacture date manually.